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  #1  
Old 03-31-2007, 03:16 AM
phe phe is offline
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Thanks. I see now what needs to be done. Page 14 of the altair guide is very important because it tell you things like the number of the unlabled pad. I wish I had followed the altair direction and soldering in all the wired with long lenghts and taped labels on the other end as it would have been easier.

One suggestion for future kit assemblers: get a pad of paper and list the hold number top to bottom along the side and left to right along the top. That would make it a lot easier.

Paul
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  #2  
Old 04-02-2007, 07:49 AM
Grant Stockly Grant Stockly is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phe View Post
Thanks. I see now what needs to be done. Page 14 of the altair guide is very important because it tell you things like the number of the unlabled pad. I wish I had followed the altair direction and soldering in all the wired with long lenghts and taped labels on the other end as it would have been easier.
I did it one wire at a time with the boards bolted into the unit. Cut them to length as I went. I didn't find this too hard. How are you doing it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by phe View Post
One suggestion for future kit assemblers: get a pad of paper and list the hold number top to bottom along the side and left to right along the top. That would make it a lot easier.
I could provide a 1:1 scale image like what you describe in the manual too. Or as an insert that people can cut out.

Would it help you RIGHT now to have that? I hope its not too late!

See the zip file below for a 300 dpi image of the back of the board with the silkscreen numbering for the wire holes in the image. I hope it helps!

Feel free to request ANYTHING that will help you out...

http://www.altairkit.com/manuals/Sup..._Guide_001.zip

At least download it and let me know if it WOULD have helped if you're done.

If you don't have a printer big enough you can clip the image into two pieces and print each piece.
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  #3  
Old 04-02-2007, 02:29 PM
phe phe is offline
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This is EXCELLENT! It is not too late. It DOES help.

I unbolted the front of the chassis to see the numbers down the one side and I wrote them on a piece of paper in order. But it was difficult to see all the numbers clearly so your diagram will make sure I get it right. And I did not really like the idea of removing the bolts once again because everything was lined up well. I figured I would look over the top to see those holes, now I don't have to.

I have just one more favor to ask: aren't there two holes on the other side (right hand side of your diagram) that need to be hooked up? Can you label those as well and repost the drawing?

Grant, thanks for the OUTSTANDING support you provide all of us.

Paul
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  #4  
Old 04-03-2007, 01:07 AM
Grant Stockly Grant Stockly is offline
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I have just one more favor to ask: aren't there two holes on the other side (right hand side of your diagram) that need to be hooked up? Can you label those as well and repost the drawing?
Do you mean the AC Power for the switch? A suggestion in the errata was to cut the traces as close to the switch as possible, solder wires to the back of the board directly on the switch pins, and then tape over the whole switch area.

I didn't do any of that...

Thanks for the kind words. If I am ever late at responding feel free to bug me via e-mail until I respond.
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